| How to Build a Computer Sep 19th 2012, 00:00 Branded computers offer value, power, ease of use, and there's always somebody to call or forums to visit when things go awry. Yet, branded computers are frequently loaded with a slower graphics card than you may want, only as much RAM as is necessary, and fewer expansion slots than you really need to to grow. As an alternative, a personal computer is surprisingly easy to build. If you can afford the time to plan and build your own machine, you can put together a custom PC that is designed specifically to meet your needs, with higher performance and greater value than any off-the-shelf solution. In this article, you'll learn how to do it. Plan Ahead - Determine your primary use. You may be a graphic designer, a software programmer, or a heavy-duty gamer—–whatever you use a computer for, your needs will be unique to your situation, and will require a different focus for your specs. Select your components accordingly:
- If you are a gamer, or a graphics professional, for example, you'll probably need a powerful graphics card (GPU) loaded with RAM, a fast multi-core CPU, a quality power supply, and over 4GB of RAM.
- For the graphics professional, all of the above, plus terabytes of disk storage for all those expansive image files.
- For the audio professional, a high-quality converter with balanced I/O, AES ports, and MIDI might be the primary consideration, as would be a super-fast hard drive or flash drive. You'll also want to focus on components that feature quiet fans and silent cooling.
- If you're setting a programming station, a fast CPU with plenty of RAM and RAID array to protect your work would be more useful than a high-end graphics card, which may be a needless expense.
- Design your spec rationally. Don't waste money on expensive parts you may not need. If your PC will be performing only basic functions, such as Internet and office tasks, you can save money by getting cheaper, more affordable components. Things to consider:
- Video connections. If you are using your computer for everyday functions, such as word processing, spreadsheets, even online video such as Netflix, motherboards with built-in video are a cost-effective and easy way to go. If your graphic demands are much higher, you'll want to be able to attach a high-end graphics card.
- Hardware connections: Most motherboards come with a stock feature list that includes USB, basic audio I/O, drives, and other common devices.
- Your motherboard and your CPU will be joined at the hip. Pick your CPU (the big contenders here are AMD and Intel), and then pick a motherboard that is built for that CPU. The are not interchangeable, so make sure you get the right one. You will also need to pick out a case that supports the motherboard.
- Don't forget aesthetics. Will your computer be a show piece, or tucked in a corner under your desk? There are some pretty showy cases available, with glowing, throbbing lights and wicked futuristic design, and there are plain, utilitarian "black boxes." If you plan on building several, you could even consider rack-mountable cases.
- Do research. Read magazines and online consumer review sites for more information. This is one of the most important steps, because everything will depend on your specs. There are many guides and reviews available from online magazines and consumer review websites. Samples include:
- PC World
- PC Magazine
- Maximum PC
- Custom PC
The basic case - Purchase the case. Armed with the design spec you've created, pick the case that best suits your needs.
- Locate a clean, well-lit place with a lot of room—–a wooden or laminate kitchen table will work, if you don't have a large computer workbench or other suitable area. Cover the surface with a smooth, light surface, such as a canvas painter's tarp: this will make it easier to find that dropped micro-screw or jumper that jumps from between your fingers. An egg carton or pill box can be used to contain screws and other small items to prevent them from rolling everywhere.
- Open the case. Take care here, or wear gloves, as the inside of some cases have machined parts that may have jagged burrs as sharp as the dickens. If you do spot such burrs, file them down and use a mini-vacuum to remove the metallic filings.
- Attach the PSU (power supply unit) to the inside of the case, following the instructions included with the case (some cases might have this step completed).
- When speccing your power supply requirements, over-estimate how much you think you need by at least 10 percent. This will give you room to grow. A power supply rated higher than you need will easily deliver the voltage you need, whereas a power supply rated too low can cause unpredictable behavior.
- Identify the leads needed. There will be bundles of wires attached to the power supply, including the motherboard connector, a CPU connector, power connectors for hard drives and DVDs, expansion cards, and more. Identify these leads in advance, and if not clearly labeled, do so now so you won't have to guess when assembling, or more to the point, won't have to remember which lead to connect, 8 months down the line when it's not fresh in your memory. Identify the power leads
Install core components - Attach an antistatic wrist strap. The motherboard is a sensitive beast, and really does not wish to be zapped after you shuffle your feet across the carpet. An anti-static wrist strap will safely shunt dangerous jolts to ground before they ever find that delicate and probably critical component.
- If you are shy an antistatic wrist strap, and simply must build right away, then before you touch any unconnected components, touch any metallic object that is part of a grounded circuit—–perhaps the case of another computer that's plugged in.
- Prepare the motherboard. Remove it from its anti-static bag, and place it on a non-conductive surface. Do not place it on top of the bag as the outside is conductive.
- Attach the CPU. Follow the instructions included with your CPU, and carefully slot that onto the motherboard. Whether the pins are on the CPU, or whether they are on the motherboard connector, take great care not to bend the pins, or you will have an expensive paperweight.
- Apply good thermal paste to the CPU. If your processer requires thermal paste, apply as directed. Adding too much thermal paste will slow the transfer of heat, making it more difficult to cool the CPU quickly. Some processors that come with heat sinks do not need thermal paste as it is already on the heat sink.
- Attach the heat sink fan. These are included in both AMD and Intel processor packages. You can also opt for a third-party heat sink fan, especially if you overclock your processor. An advantage of third-party heat sink fans, regardless of your clock speed, is that they are often quieter than original equipment fans.
- Install the RAM. Insert the DIMM modules into the proper slots by opening the slots and pushing the RAM in until the little handles can lock it into position. Note how the RAM and slots are keyed––line them up so they will fit in properly. When pushing, press both sides of the RAM module with equal force. You will generally want to install RAM modules in pairs, unless you have a triple-channel motherboard—in which case you would use sets of 3 DIMMS. If RAM sockets have two colours, this may indicate the priority slots in case if you are not using all available slots.
- Remove the I/O backplate. The motherboard should come with its own backplate, and it is unlikely that your case will have an appropriate backplate for the motherboard. Note: removing the existing backplate may take a bit of force. Sometimes they have screws to hold them in place, but most are held in only by friction. Pop it out by pressing on the bracket from the rear side of the case.
- Punch out any tabs covering I/O component holes.
- Attach the motherboard to the case. Following the instructions included with both the motherboard and the case, mount the motherboard securely to the case.
Connect components - Attach the video card. If you've opted for a separate video card, plug that into your PCI Express slot.
- Add other cards. You may have also chosen to include pro audio cards, RAID controllers, additional video cards, PCI, AGP, ISP cards, and more. Now is the time to install them. Be sure to secure them into place with the proper screws.
- Plug in the case connectors. These tend to be located together on the motherboard near the front of the case. The order in which these are connected will depend on which is easiest. Normally top left to right is easiest.
- The soft power switch (motherboard power switch). It does not matter which way around this is connected.
- Reset switch, again it does not matter which way around this is connected
- LED hard disk indicator (sometimes called the power LED)
- Sleep indicator (if the case supports this)
- Internal speaker connection.
- Connect the audio. If you have a front audio panel, then remove any jumpers that are installed on the motherboard connector and connect the front audio panel lead. Normally there will be a blank pin so that there is only one way of connecting the lead. Make sure you match up the right connectors, as they will be either AC97 or HDAudio. Assume AC97 when in doubt.
- Connect the USB ports. Similarly, locate the front panel USB connectors (these are additions to the rear USB connectors) and connect the USB leads. There is usually only one way in which these can be connected.
- Install the drives. Each case will present a different method for installing the various drives. Install them as directed, and attach the power cables to the motherboard and to the drives. The primary drives you will be installing are:
- HDD (hard disk drives). These are the traditional hard drives we all know and love. They're inexpensive, and offer terabytes of storage.
- SSD (solid state drive). These are somewhat more expensive, and lower in capacity, but they have the benefit of no moving parts, and are exceedingly fast. They're a great option for pro audio and video applications.
- DVD. A good DVD drive that reads and writes both DVDs and CDs is great if you need to burn backups or transfer files by hand. A DVD drive is also good if you like to watch movies on your computer, or have it hooked to your home entertainment system. You might also consider a Blu-Ray DVD drive if your primary purpose for the drive is entertainment. Follow the case instructions, and attach the drives as directed.
- Floppy drive. Sure, these drives have been considered antiques by the beginning of the twenty-first century, but there are still some cases where they are necessary—–plus you may have legacy files on them you would like to access, even if just to transfer over the information. You can add one inside your case, or do like a lot of folks, and just use a USB floppy drive that you plug in as needed.
- Some drives will require altering jumper settings. Your drive manuals will guide you for the proper setup. If you are using IDE drives and putting them on the same channel, then you should configure the hard drive as master and the CD/DVD drive as slave; this will make boot-ups faster and prevent issues in the future. Otherwise, check the jumper on the DVD drive to ensure that it is set as Master if this will be the first drive on one of the Extended IDE (E-IDE) channels.
Finishing up - Connect the motherboard power leads. There are various types of motherboard power connectors. Older ATX motherboards will have a 20-pin connector and possibly a separate 4-pin 12V connector, while newer motherboards will have a 24-pin connector and a separate 6 or 8-pin 12V connector. Legacy computers may have two or more in-line connectors.
- Connect case fans if you have them. Most fans will come with their own adapters for plugging into the motherboard or directly attaching to the power supply.
- Clean up your wiring. Using Velcro strips, plastic-coated twist ties, or plastic zip ties, clean up all those bundles of wire. Not only will your case look neater, it will make it easier for air to flow around all the components, and a well-ventilated computer is a happy computer.
- Put the case back together. Connect only a keyboard, mouse, and monitor to the computer. Once the operating system and drives are installed, you can connect the other peripherals you have.
Software installation - Plug in your computer. Most CD/DVD drives will have a small hole for opening the drive. Put a straightened paper clip in the hole and the drive should open. If yours does not, turn on the computer and immediately open the CD drive. Put the CD for your operating system in the drive and close it. Restart your computer by pressing the power button until it shuts off and then push the power button again to turn the computer back on. (Don't forget to turn your monitor on.)
- Check the motherboard manual for keys to use to start the "boot sequence" or "CMOS settings," or sometimes "BIOS settings." Click this button when the motherboard splash screen appears. Set your computer's CD/DVD drive as the first boot option. You may have to reboot your computer for these settings to take effect.
- Follow the instructions to install your operating system. With most operating systems, this will include: Formatting the hard drive, configuring the boot loader, configuring the operating system, and finally installing the operating system. Also you will need to install the drivers, they can be found by looking on a search engine for the specific part, such as for a Radeon HD 5770, you would search for Radeon HD 5770 Drivers. To check and see if you need the drivers in Windows, click Start, Control Panel, either System, or something pertaining to system maintenance, then click on System, then either go to the Device Manager, or look on each tab for it. Once you have Device Manager open, look for a broken exclamation point, or a yellow exclamation point. You must install the drivers for those products. You may want to download the drivers to a disc on a different computer while waiting for the operating system to install. Pentium IV and higher require drivers. Once the operating system is installed, you're ready to go.
- If you bought an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) edition of Microsoft Windows and you have a license sticker, you may want to attach the sticker on the side of the PC for future reference when Windows Setup asks for it.
- Each power supply cable will only fit in the correct orientation, but pressure will still be needed to push the cables in. If using a newer power supply with a 8-pin EPS 12V connector and a PCI Express 8-pin connector, don't attempt to force the cables into place.
- Use zip ties to carefully bundle all of the cables, and route them to prevent them from blocking the airflow. If possible, avoid using IDE components such as hard drives and optical drives, as the standard ribbon cable will block airflow.
- Don't leave the hardware on your floor for days while you figure out what you should do, as this may lead to electrostatic discharge which can damage or ruin computer components (it only takes about 10 volts to kill some computer parts). When not attached to the motherboard and case, all components should be left in their anti-static bags. An alternative to this is placing the items on a non-conductive surface, such as a wood or glass table or desk.
- If you put the computer system together and it does not work, take out everything except the power supply, motherboard, RAM, and processor cooler (and video card if not using an on-board video card). Ensure that it works by viewing your BIOS start up screen. Turn it off, then plug in your hard drives and verify that it works. Turn it off, then plug in your CD-ROM and ensure that it works. Turn it off, and continue to plug in each additional peripheral until everything is plugged in and working. The idea here is to put in the minimum components to get it to power up, then add one at a time so you know what component is causing the problem.
- Some power supplies have a built in 115/230V converter. If you are in the U.S. use the 115V setting, otherwise use the 230V. Consult the Chart on Wikipedia at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Weltkarte_der_Netzspannungen_und_Netzfrequenzen.svg, just to be sure.
- It may be very helpful to request the assistance of a friend who is familiar with building computers. At the very least, ask for their opinions on the parts you plan to use.
Edit Warnings - Do not use force to insert any component into any slot or socket. The tolerances of newer hardware components may be narrow, but everything should still fit without the need to apply too much force. Memory modules are among the few types of components that may require a bit of pressure to install. Before installing your memory modules, make sure they match the memory slots by comparing the notches.
- Do not force cable connections. Fortunately, cables at the back of a computer will only fit onto their intended connector. All cables, except for coaxial and some laptop power connections, will only connect when they are in the same orientation as their connector. For example, digital visual interface (DVI) and video graphics array (VGA) video cables have a trapezoidal connector, not a rectangular one.
- If you are unsure about any aspect of the construction of your computer, do not try "winging" it. Either ask someone who knows what they're doing to "spot" you while you build or hire a professional to do it for you. Another alternative is to seek advice from the included instructional manuals that are packaged with the individual pieces of computer hardware that you are assembling. Often, if these have not been included––or perhaps the parts you are using to construct your computer system are of a second hand nature––you may be able to consult the System Support section of the website page of the manufacturer to attempt to acquire the necessary instructional documentation.
- Avoid electrostatic discharge when installing components. Wear a static wristband or regularly ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case before handling components. Read the Related wikiHow on How to avoid destroying a computer with electrostatic discharge for additional information.
- Double-check all connections before switching on the computer for the first time. Although in most instances it shall only be possible to mount a fabricated connector in one possible orientation, some are rather delicate and with a relatively small amount of force applied to them can, indeed, be inserted offset by 180 degrees. This is especially true with access memory (random) dual inline memory modules (DIMMs), as they can sometimes appear to the system builder, that they have been inserted in the correct orientation but have, indeed, been inserted incorrectly. Such application of a memory module to a DIMM slot will result in a short-circuit of the System memory, rendering the ram PCB broken and unable to be used. This can be avoided by paying rather strict attention to the so-called line up notches that are present on modern RAM DIMM modules, making it increasingly apparent to the computer System builder that he or she has positioned the system Memory in an incorrect fashion.
- When plugging in CPUs and PATA (IDE) devices, be gentle. If you bend a pin, use tweezers or a narrow needle-nose pliers to straighten it. If you break a pin, on a CPU or CPU socket, your hardware will no longer function correctly. If you break a pin on an IDE connector, you have a 7 in 40 chance that you've broken a ground pin, which may not be critical to a device's functionality.
- Use care when working around the sharp, sheet metal edges of a computer case. It is easy to cut yourself, especially with very small cases.
- Maintain a circuit connection to electrical ground when building the computer. This can, indeed, be achieved by plugging the computer powered supply unit (PSU) into an available mains-power outlet by means of a cable of the recommended amperage rating. This cable shall, indeed, usually be a kettle type chord that was provided with your computer initially. Ensure that the available mains-power outlet has been switched off. This is to ensure that the various electronic parts inside the computer that you are connecting together as you progress with your PC build are not, indeed, live. With the mains-power outlet in the off position, indeed, the ground connection is still maintained. It is only the other two live terminals that have their circuits broken, so no power is transmitted to the said device. Indeed, this is a safety measure built in to all mains-power outlet circuit switches.
- Don't touch the resistors on the CPU or the socket.
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